Ground View
by Glen
Andresen |
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This month I finish up my discussion of weed control by looking at some specific mechanical or physical controls (by you or a machine) that physically disrupt or  kill weeds. Even if you do all you can to prevent weeds from growing in the first place, it is highly probably that you will still have some weeds in your garden. After all, that tough-mindedness is what makes weeds so successful—and hard to eliminate! So here are my last suggestions for staying ahead of weeds.
Do not disturb the soil if you can help it. There are likely one to two bazillion weed seeds in your soil already, just waiting for the light of day to begin growing.
Or, disturb the soil. If you’re a “take the bull by the horns” sort, you might choose to disturb the soil on purpose with a rototiller or rake to encourage weeds to grow, then shallowly rake the vulnerable weed seedlings into submission.
Flame the weeds. This method usually requires a propane-powered device that just singes the plants’ cell walls so that the plants essentially ooze to death. You don’t want to set the plant on fire. (Well, you may feel that way once in a while!) It’s most effective to keep the flame on the weed for about two seconds until the water in its cells starts to “boil.” This method is non-selective and is best used for sidewalks, non-wood patios, and fence lines. A second or third treatment is usually required for tough perennial weeds, such as dandelions.
Use boiling water (or steam). This method is a favorite of mine when I have a pot full of boiling water left over from canning. Once again, this method is non-selective and may require additional treatments.
Use plain old, off-the-shelf 5 percent acidity vinegar. Studies have shown that 20 percent acidity vinegar offers good control of both annual and perennial weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar causes the cell membrane to essentially dissolve. The weed’s leaves dry out and ultimately it dies. I’ve experimented with the 5 percent acidity vinegar and am happy to report that annual weeds usually perished after just one application during the heat of the day. After two or three applications, even dandelions and moss on my sidewalk didn’t survive. Vinegar is not reported to accumulate in the environment and readily breaks down into water.
Use an herbicidal soap approved for use in organic gardens. These fatty acids-based soaps work by disrupting the outer cuticle on the leaf’s surface, which causes the plant to dehydrate. You will still need two or three applications to kill dandelions. [Note: Don’t use flaming, boiling water, vinegar, or organic herbicides for weed control in lawns, as you will inevitably end up injuring grass alongside the weed.]
Leave your garden bed fallow for an entire season and make the effort to whack, rake or hoe down weeds as they appear, especially before they set seeds.
Hire livestock, such as goats. OK, this is not for everybody, but it can be quite effective. And fun. Or try guinea pigs. Someone told me years ago that when the neighborhood kids found out that their pet guinea pig loved to eat dandelions, the kids would go looking for that specific weed to feed to the g-pig.
Repeatedly pull dandelions. It may take one or two years, but these plants will eventually exhaust their root-stored energy reserves. Another note on dandelions: These plants thrive on unfertile, compacted ground. You may be able to reduce their numbers in your lawn by increasing the soil’s fertility and porosity. To do so, add ¼ to ½ inch of sifted compost each year and aerate about every three years.
Repeatedly mow or line-trim down pernicious weeds, even Himalaya blackberries and English ivy. It may take a few years, but these plants, too, will eventually exhaust their root-stored energy reserves. For more information on ways to combat invasive weed species, visit: http://emswcd.org/weeds.
Employ the neighborhood kids. Pay them a nickel for each weed that they pull from your lawn. That’s 50 dandelions for just $2.50 (if you have that many…)!
Use a hoe. Hoes come in a variety of shapes and styles, so experiment. In fact, I’ve got a rather extensive collection of hoes. Perhaps you’d like to come over to my garden and take them all for a test drive. Yes, yes, you can start in my beet bed with the Winged Weeder, then try a different hoe in the corn bed, then I’ve got this nifty hand hoe that you can use around the eggplants, then…
Albert Einstein once said “Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler.” I suggest that your garden area should be as small as possible, but not smaller…because then you will have less area to weed and water and fertilize. Doing a little of each of those tasks is rather calming and fun. Doing a little more is a chore.
Glen Andresen hosts “The Dirtbag,” aired every second Wednesday at 11 a.m. on KBOO 90.7 FM. He tends his bees on a three-quarter acre organic garden at a retreat in Eagle Creek. He also coordinates Metro’s Natural Gardening Program. Comments and questions may be sent to glen@pacifier.com or c/o The Portland Alliance.
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